Because the sleeves of the trunk show garment seemed a little too long, we recommend making the back and collar first. That way you can sew those pieces together, try them on, and decide whether and how to alter the sleeve length. Also, note that the beginning of right-side rows will be the outer edge of the collar – try to always changes balls of yarn at the beginning of wrong-side rows so the resulting ends can be woven into the seam.
Also, remember that your wrong side rows begin not at the left-hand edge of the chart, but where the right-side repeat ended FOR YOUR SIZE.
I am finding knitting this piece very meditative because I am required to really focus on following the chart while tuning our mental distractions. I hope everyone else finds it similarly peaceful to knit. If not, be sure to come in for help.
Measuring armhole depth:
It is easier and more accurate to measure armhole depth by attaching a marker or contrasting scrap of yarn to a stitch in the center of the row on which the first armhole bind-off occurs, then measuring from that marker. Accurate measuring along a side edge, especially one where shaping occurs, is very difficult.
When you get to the part of the back where you simultaneously shape the raglan, form the pleats and shape the neck, DON’T PANIC! Just take it a step at a time, keep track of each operation, and feel free to come in for help if you need it. It really is a lot easier than you may think when you first glance at the directions!
Notes on the back decreases:
By putting the decreases 3 stitches in from the edges and using a decrease that slants the opposite direction from the fabric’s slope, the designer has created subtle textural interest in an otherwise plain part of the piece.
I love this detail, but if you prefer an invisible decrease you could put them one stitch in from the edge (not right on the edge, please!) and reverse them so that the SSK is done at the beginning of the row and the K2 tog is at the end.
I’ve complete my gauge swatch for Stibnite from Berroco’s Norah Gaughan Vol 7.
I usually have to drop down one needle size from that indicated on the yarn label, but in this case I had to go down to a size 6 Addi Lace needle to get gauge, 2 sizes down from what is indcated on the label.
This has happened to me before when using an alpaca or alpaca-blend yarn, and I will be curious to see whether this is the case for anyone else. I plan on re-checking my gauge when I’ve completed 4 or 5 inches of the back – sometimes our gauge changes when we get into the actual garment. It will be frustrating if I have to start over at that point, but better than completing the whole garment and having it the wrong size!